FAQ |
Kirkham FAQ
Buying a custom made car is a big decision and our customers have lots of questions. Here is a list of the most common questions that we get. Click on a question below or scroll down through the page to see the answers. Please call us at 801.377.8224 if you need additional information.
How much is a Kirkham replica?
How long will it take to get my Kirkham?
How much down is required to initiate the order?
Can I purchase a car in phases?
How much is shipping??
Is a fuel cell an option?
Will I have to be able to read a wiring diagram to finish my car?
Can I buy the car unassembled but have you do the wiring?
How long does it take to get a car and what kind of contract do you use?
If I eventually plan to have the car painted, what is the best aluminum finish to order?
Is it possible to visit your facility? What arrangements do I need to make?
Are the cars available in fiberglass?
Does Kirkham Motorsports sell parts individually?
What Transmission do you recommend?
Which engines fit into your car?
Does Kirkham Motorsports sell the suspension components separately?
Do you sell side pipes?
Will you do a turnkey car?
How much do your cars weigh?
Do you have a hardtop that could later be added to the aluminum body?
Will the body be hard to put on?
What tools will I need to put the car together?
Will I need a welder or any specialty tools if I assemble the car myself?
Will I have to cut the car?
What kind of main tubes do you use on the Kirkham frame?
I understand that the frame on the original cars tended to sag. Have you done anything about that?
Is the frame of the car made of aluminum?
Is the stainless steel more functional than the mild steel?
Why do you offer stainless steel in the frame if the function is the same?
Why does KMS build their cars only in aluminum?
Why aren’t all kit cars built in aluminum?
So if it is difficult to work, how will I get it repaired when the inevitable dents and dings appear?
What about repairing a full blown wreck when the frame gets squashed?
What kind of aluminum do you use for the bodies?
Why don’t you paint your cars?
Since you finish your cars in bare metal, is painting an option?
What is used for sound deadening?
Do you have options for a heater and defrost?
What kind of wheels does the car come with?
Do you use aluminum or stainless knock offs (spinners)?
Are aluminum knock offs safe?
Q: How much is a Kirkham replica?
A: The roadster models start at $39,900. See the pricing link for more info
Q: How long will it take to get my Kirkham?
A: Approximately one month if your particular choice of frame and body is in stock. For special orders, it takes approximately six months. Some options are special order only and may take extra time, depending upon availability.
Q: How much down is required to initiate the order? As the build progresses, are there points along the process where further moneys are required?
A: We require $5,000 down as a deposit in order to start production of your car. If the car is a special/custom order the deposit is 50%. The balance must clear the bank before the car is released. There are no other payments. Just the initial deposit and the final payment when we tell you the car is ready to go. Some customers visit to inspect the car before it leaves. Some only request photos. Some just want their car. We will work with you however you like. We encourage you to come inspect the car prior to delivery.
Q: Can I purchase a car in phases, ie frame, then the body, suspension etc...?
A: Yes but remember, the body cannot be disassembled from the frame because it is actually formed around it. One of the most difficult parts of building an aluminum bodied car is being able to hang the body correctly. The final welding of the body is not completed until after the skin has been mounted on the frame. Then the doors, hood, and trunk lid are made specifically to fit that car. We will sell the frame and body separate from the rest of the parts but it is more cost effective to purchase the car as a complete package. Buying the parts separately is also more expensive because of the added shipping costs. Call for current pricing.
A: The customer is responsible for shipping from Provo, Utah. You are welcome to take delivery of your car in person, or have it shipped by the carrier of your choice. We use and recommend Rich's Classic Transport to ship cars in the contiguous United States. You can call them at 402.366.1848 for a quote.
A: Yes, a fuel cell is an option...BUT...fuel cells require a lot of maintenance. Fuel cell manufacturers recommend that you replace the foam inside on a yearly basis because it brakes down and clogs the fuel system. This can and will have disastrous results on your engine. The fuel cell bladder also has to be removed and sent to the manufacturer to be re-certified every two to three years. Our tanks are made from stainless steel and have internal baffles engineered to stop fuel from sloshing around and changing your cars weight distribution as you drive. Unless you need a fuel cell to meet racing rules, we strongly recommend that you use our tanks.
Q: Will I have to be able to read a wiring diagram to finish my car?
A: If you get the car assembled from Kirkham then almost all of the wiring is completed. You will have to hook up the 3 alternator wires (stator, field, and power), the starter cable and the battery.
If you do not get the car assembled from Kirkham, you will need to do all of the wiring. We will provide you with a Painless Wiring Harness that needs to be finished to fit in your car. The wires are marked their entire length so they are very easy to install but you will need to run the wires, cut the wires to length, and crimp the ends on the wires.
Q: Can I buy the car unassembled but have you do the wiring?
A: Yes, that is common on the do-it-yourself cars. Call for current pricing to complete the wiring harness and install it on the car.
Q: In terms of lead time between order and delivery of a roller, what is the approximate length of time that is usually required. Is this somehow reflected in your contract?
A: The lead time for a car depends entirely on what you order. If you order something for which we have the frame and body in stock the lead is very short--a couple of months and sometimes less. If you want a bunch of custom work it takes a lot longer--up to several months. When somebody orders a one-off variation, they have to be patient because there can be a lot of engineering and work in it and it will also be more expensive. If you order something advertised on our website there is usually no problem, at least with the KMS/SC. We make several versions of the car--mostly the 289 models--and some options have to begin with the initial manufacturing process. If we have projected our sales different from your order then we have to get the frame and body made in Poland. It is two months through the Polish manufacturing process and two months in transit. Then we have to put it together in our shop. So you will be about six months out, maybe longer depending on what is involved.
Contract: We use a Sales Order with Terms and Conditions. It basically describes our company policies as well as your order so we know for sure what to plan on for your car. When we make your sales order, we will give you an evaluation of the time required to get your car ready to go. Even so, things can happen that change the delivery date. We have experienced delays with radiators, side pipes, differential gears, etc. which we don't make. Sometimes we have to ship parts later than the car. If that is the case, we pay for shipping of the parts that follow the car. Other than the deposit, we don't get paid until your car is ready to go. If there is any problem with parts, we will let you know.
Q: If I eventually plan to have the car painted, what is the best aluminum finish to order ?
A: The best finish to have on a car that is to be painted is the filed finish. There is no extra charge for this finish and it is the best finish for your painter to start with. We do not paint.
Q: Is it possible to visit your facility? What arrangements do I need to make?
A: We have visitors here every week. You are always welcome Monday through Friday, 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. If you need a time other than this, just call. It is always a good idea to call before you come to ensure that we are not at a show.
Q: Are the cars available in fiberglass?
A: No. The bodies are aluminum.
Q: Does Kirkham Motorsports sell parts individually?
A: Yes. Please make a list and give us a call.
Q: What Transmission do you recommend?
A: We recommend either the Ford 4-speed Top Loader or a Tremec 5-speed. You can use an original Top Loader or there are companies that make transmissions from all new parts. The Top Loader is a four speed non over-drive transmission. For the Tremec we recommend the TKO 600 with the .82 overdrive ratio.
Q: Which engines fit into your car?
A: We recommend engines from the Ford FE (390, 427, 428...) or Windsor (289, 302, 351W) families depending on which replica you build.
Q: Does Kirkham Motorsports sell the suspension components separately?
A: Yes
A: Yes.
A: We offer assembly with everything we sell. However, please be aware that we don't supply or install engines and transmissions
Q: How much do your cars weigh?
A: A completed car can weigh less than 1900 lbs. for a car with an aluminum small block and all the lightweight options, to over 2400 lbs. for a car with an iron big block.
Q: Do you have a hardtop that could later be added to the aluminum body?
A: We do make an aluminum hardtop for the car. However, since all our cars are hand made there is a slight variation in each car. For that reason, the top must be individually fit to each car. The top must be ordered with the car in order for it to fit.
Q: Will the body be hard to put on?
A: When you get our frame and body you will notice your body is riveted to the frame--just like an original car. The body does not come off.
Q: What tools will I need to put the car together?
A: Most tools needed are common hand tools that are found in an average tool box. You will need:
Complete set of SAE wrenches and/or socket set 1/4 - 1 inch . (1 1/4 if you plan on working on your oil cooler)
Locking pliers
Common (flat) screw driver
Phillips screw driver
Drill and drill bits 1/8 - 1/2"
Wire cutters and crimper
Files - flat and half round
Rivet tool and rivets (1/8" button head 3/16 - 1/4" grip length)
Hack saw or small reciprocating saw (for exhaust cut outs)
Q: Will I need a welder or any specialty tools if I assemble the car myself?
A: No, not unless you are into serious modifications. You may want to get a hand rivet tool to help remove and replace splash panels. This makes it easier to install the engine and fuel tank but is not absolutely necessary. A small reciprocating saw is needed for the exhaust cutouts.
Q: Will I have to cut the car?
A: If you install side pipes you will need to cut a hole in the body--or, if you are a little squeamish, you can have us cut the hole for you. There is no other cutting you will need to do.
Q: What kind of main tubes do you use on the Kirkham frame?
A: We use a round tube frame that is geometrically identical to the original cars. The 427 frame’s main tubes are 4” in diameter. The original 289 frame main tubes were 3” in diameter. All cars come standard with the four inch main tube frame. The three inch main tube frame is available as an option on the 289 cars. Some customers prefer the stronger four inch tubes even on the 289 cars. The 427 frame uses the coil over suspension; the three inch frame uses the older technology of the leaf spring suspension. We put your version together however you prefer. Both frames are the same as the originals.
Q: I understand that the frame on the original cars tended to sag. Have you done anything about that?
A: Yes, the frame we use is geometrically the same as the original car frames. However, we have increased the wall thickness of the main frame tubes of the car.
Q: Is the frame of the car made of aluminum?
A: No, the frame of the car was originally made in mild steel which was then painted black. We use DOM mild steel material for the frame, but we powder coat the frame instead of painting it for a more durable finish. The frame is also available in stainless steel for those who prefer the panache of the stainless steel.
Q: Is the stainless steel more functional than the mild steel?
A: No, the function is approximately the same.
Q: Why do you offer stainless steel in the frame if the function is the same?
A: It is purely a matter of aesthetics. Stainless looks really cool, but then how often do you park your car on mirrors?
Q: Why does KMS build their cars only in aluminum?
A: KMS uses aluminum for our cars for two reasons: 1. Aluminum was the material used in the original cars that KMS replicates. 2. Aluminum has many desirable features, making it the material of choice for many/most high-end/exotic cars. Among these features is the stability of aluminum. Neither the heat of the engine nor the sun on a hot day will warp the aluminum. The lightweight of the aluminum will work synergistically with your engine to add muscle when performance matters.
Q: Why aren’t all kit cars built in aluminum?
A: If aluminum were more easily worked and a bit less expensive, it would probably be the material of choice for most consumer vehicles. Aluminum is both lightweight and strong, making it a high demand metal for the aircraft industry and exotic car manufacturers. In addition to being more expensive than other materials, it requires trained craftsmen to be able to massage the metal into more than the simplest of shapes.
Q: So if it is difficult to work, how will I get it repaired when the inevitable dents and dings appear?
A: There are two ways to approach the repair:
1. If your car is painted it can be somewhat straightened and then filled like any steel car and some originals. We aren’t fans of this method, but it is available—just think of it like you do the car you drive everyday—no difference in the way it could be repaired.
2. KMS chooses to coax the metal back from whence it came—help it remember where it is supposed to be. If metal fatigue sets in then heat it to the annealing point and begin again to tap and coax it to where it belongs. If there are tears you weld them together (which will take a good welder) then file off the welding seam. When it looks right and you are happy with your work, then it can be brushed, polished, or painted again and the car is as good as new. Remember, the car began as a flat sheet of metal. It took a lot of hammering, coaxing, beating, tapping, etc. to make it look like a Kirkham, so what you have done with the repair, is just more of the same. The repair will just be an extension of how the car was made in the first place. And unless you know how the underside of the body looked when you got it, you won’t even know which seams were original to the car and which ones were a part of the repair. And since all Kirkham cars are handmade and therefore each a tad different, it will be hard for anybody to say for sure where the repair is and where the original seams are. That is if you did your work carefully. If your car is brushed or polished, you have only to re-brush or re-polish the repaired area. Not the entire car. Paint is probably a different matter. This seamless car has no place to hide the new paint from the old, so some really good blending or a new paint job could be in order. But that is no different from the fiberglass cars—they don’t have any body lines or breaks either.
Q: What about repairing a full blown wreck when the frame gets squashed.
A: This might be more of a challenge. Obviously that frame has to be repaired before any work begins on the body. But think about the original cars, most of them have been repaired no matter how bad the damage. One of our customers munched his car, then bought a new frame and body to replace the old. What happened next? Somebody bought the bent frame and body and restored it. And can anyone tell? It is doubtful. But we can always provide you a replacement frame and body.
Q: What kind of aluminum do you use for the bodies?
A: KMS uses an aircraft alloy that is stronger, a bit thicker (0.059" compared to 0.050"), and more dent resistant than the original aluminum used in the 1960’s. As an option we will use the original alloy if that is what the customer wants—it is far easier to work than the aircraft alloy we use.
Q: Why don’t you paint your cars?
A: There are many superb painters, but paint is not our specialty. As a customer, you need to be able to work with your painter to make sure you get what you expect. And when that ding comes along, your original painter who did the job in the first place should be the best able to correct the problem.
Q: Since you finish your cars in bare metal, is painting an option?
A: Yes, aluminum can be painted just exactly the same way that steel is painted. Aluminum is technically an excellent base for paint, in fact, aluminum and steel are probably the best surfaces available for automotive paint. All the original cars were painted. We don’t paint cars because that is not our specialty.
Q: What is used for sound deadening?
A: The mufflers in the side pipes control most of the sound coming out of the engine. However, the carpet and foot box insulation as well as the wheel well foam will all have some effect on the sound.
Q: Do you have options for a heater and defrost?
A: No. Normally the engine is more than enough heat in the car but unless the car has a top, adding heater will not be very effective.
Q: What kind of wheels does the car come with?
A: Currently, we use the Trigo 15 inch pin drive rims that are copies of the originals.
Q: Do you use aluminum or stainless knock offs (spinners)?
A: We use aluminum knock offs. They are lighter than stainless and if you have been following us for any length of time you know rotational, unsprung mass is very critical to us. We want to keep it as LOW as possible.
Q: Are aluminum knock offs safe?
A: Remember, Cobras, GT40's, and a host of other cars used aluminum knock offs for years in the 24 hours of Le Mans. Aluminum nuts are still used for qualifying in F1. If they will last on an F1 car and at Le Mans they are fine for street/track use.
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